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CrossRoads Conversations
When I first started hosting Camino de Santiago walking retreats in rural Gascony, the French Tuscany, I assumed I would be the one doing most of the teaching.
I couldn’t have been more wrong.
Over the years, dozens of people have arrived at my farmhouse carrying backpacks, walking boots, and lives that had gradually become much too heavy. Some were still working. Some had retired. Some were rebuilding after loss, illness or divorce. Others simply couldn’t explain why they felt so restless.
They thought they had come to walk a couple of sections of the Camino.
In the end, they became MY teachers. The CrossRoads Conversations blog post series explores what my guests have taught me over the last twenty-odd years.
After years of hosting Camino de Santiago hiking retreats in southwest France, I’ve discovered that nature doesn’t just provide a beautiful backdrop—it quietly shows us how to navigate life’s changing seasons.
One of the questions I’m asked surprisingly often is, “When is the best time to walk the Camino?“
Each season has something the others don’t.
Over the years, I’ve welcomed dozens of guests to my little farmhouse in southwest France, where my retreats include two or three days walking sections of the Camino de Santiago along the historic Le Puy route. Some arrive in spring, when the countryside seems determined to prove that miracles happen every year. Others come in the blazing heat of summer, when the cicadas perform with the confidence of an orchestra that has never needed a conductor. Autumn brings golden vineyards and crisp mornings. Winter, although quieter for retreats, has its own kind of honesty.
People often ask me which season I prefer.
I’ve stopped trying to choose.
Each one reminds me of something I’d almost forgotten.
Spring, for example, is gloriously impatient.
Wildflowers appear where only weeks before there was bare earth. The orchards burst into blossom as though someone had quietly switched nature back on. Swallows return from Africa with impeccable timing, apparently having misplaced neither their passports nor their sense of direction. The vines, which looked so lifeless throughout winter, suddenly produce tiny green shoots that promise an entirely new vintage.
If nature ever needed a slogan, spring’s would surely be: Never underestimate new beginnings.
It’s a comforting thought for anyone standing at a crossroads in life.
Many of my guests arrive feeling as though something inside them has gone quiet. Retirement has left them wondering what comes next. A difficult year has dented their confidence. A life transition has left them feeling untethered.
Spring gently suggests that beginnings rarely announce themselves with fireworks.
Most start as tiny green shoots.
Summer tells a different story.
The sunflowers that line the Camino seem almost absurdly optimistic. They spend their days following the sun with unwavering commitment, blissfully unconcerned with what the neighbouring field might be doing.
There is probably a lesson in that.
Modern life encourages endless comparison. Someone else has a better career, a larger house, a more adventurous retirement, or grandchildren who apparently produce museum-quality artwork before they can walk.
The sunflowers remain magnificently uninterested.
They simply turn towards the light.
I’ve often thought we’d all be happier if we spent a little less time looking sideways and a little more time looking upwards.
Autumn may well be my favourite season of all.
The vineyards surrounding my farmhouse begin to glow with shades of gold, amber and crimson. The harvest reminds us that growth isn’t the whole story. There comes a time when we have to gather the fruits of what we’ve spent years cultivating.
Many of my guests are at exactly that stage of life.
After decades of building careers, raising families or caring for others, they begin asking a different question.
What now?
Not because life is winding down.
Quite the opposite.
Because they finally have the opportunity to decide what they want the next chapter to look like.
The Camino seems particularly well suited to these ruminations.
Walking alone through vineyards that have witnessed countless harvests has a curious way of putting our own lives into perspective. The vines don’t produce grapes every month of the year. They don’t apologise for resting through winter, nor do they panic if they aren’t ready for harvest in September.
They simply trust the season they’re in.
Only humans seem convinced that we should be productive every day of every year.
No wonder so many of us are exhausted.
Then winter arrives.
The leaves fall.
The orchards stand bare.
The vineyards appear almost lifeless.
At first glance, it can seem as though nothing is happening.
Yet anyone who works with the land knows better.
Life has seasons too.
Some are filled with growth and excitement.
Others invite us to pause, recover and reflect.
Hosting Camino retreats has taught me that many of us resist these quieter seasons. We mistake resting for failing. We become impatient if life isn’t moving as quickly as we’d planned.
Nature never seems to make that mistake.
It knows that every season has a purpose.
Many of my guests come back again and again. Often in different seasons. And as they walk through vineyards, orchards and sunflower fields, at different times of the year, they begin to see that they, too, are allowed to have seasons. Seasons of striving and seasons of stillness. Seasons of loss and seasons of renewal. Seasons of letting go, and seasons of beginning again.
The countryside simply gets on with it.
Season after season.
Year after year.
What season of life are you in?
If you’re standing at a crossroads and feel that a few days walking the Camino through the vineyards, orchards and sunflower fields of southwest France might help you see your own season more clearly, I’d love to tell you more about my small-group walking retreats.
Sometimes the next chapter doesn’t begin with forging ahead. Sometimes it begins with recognising and appreciating the season you’re in.
You can email me at MargarethaMontagu@gmail.com.

If your soul is craving fresh air, meaningful movement, and a chance to reconnect with nature, join me on a 5-day/4-night CrossRoads Camino de Santiago Walking Retreat – a powerful, natural reboot for your body, mind, and spirit. No fitness requirements. No forced bonding. No pressure to have a breakthrough. Just one foot in front of the other, and finding your way to a brighter future.

Do you dream of escaping your stressful life to raise a herd of goats or grow sunflowers in the south of France? Then you may be ready for an Esprit Meraki retreat. Get access to this “very serious” quiz to help you figure out how urgent your need for a change of scenery is, when you subscribe to my monthly newsletter.

What Life Lessons Can You Learn While Walking the Camino de Santiago? – a free guide filled with 10 not just “quaint anecdotes” or Instagram-worthy moments (though there are plenty of those) but real transformations from real people who walked this insight-giving trail – Subscribe to my monthly newsletter to Download the Guide

“I am an experienced medical doctor – MBChB, MRCGP, NLP master pract cert, Transformational Life Coach (dip.) Life Story Coach (cert.) Stress Counselling (cert.) Med Hypnotherapy (dip.) and EAGALA (cert.) I may have an impressive number of letters after my name, and more than three decades of professional experience, but what qualifies me to excel at what I do is my intuitive understanding of my clients’ difficulties and my extensive personal experience of managing major life changes using strategies I developed over many years.” Dr M Montagu



