When is the Best Time of the Year to Walk the Camino de Santiago in Southwest France?

When people ask me when the best time is to walk the Camino de Santiago, they’re usually expecting a simple answer. Spring? Autumn? Definitely NOT August?

I’m afraid there is no simple answer to this question.

For example, today, people set out for all sorts of reasons. Some walk for their faith, some for the challenge, some because life has thrown them a curveball and they’re hoping the Camino might help them make sense of it all. Others simply fancy a very long walk with excellent wine and the occasional existential crisis thrown in for good measure.

Although the Camino Francés from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is the route most people have heard of, several Camino routes pass through southwest France, each with its own character, scenery and rhythm. Here in Gascony, I see walkers arrive in every season, and each one tells a slightly different story.

So when is the best time to walk?

The truthful answer is that it depends far less on the calendar than on the experience you’re hoping to have. Some people long for bustling cafés, new friendships and lively hostels. Others dream of quiet country lanes, birdsong and enough solitude to hear themselves think again.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the seasons on the French Camino routes, looking at the weather, the crowds, the practicalities and, perhaps most importantly, the atmosphere each season brings. By the end, you’ll have a much better idea of when would be the best time for you.

Quick recap: The Camino de Santiago, or Way of St. James, is an ancient network of pilgrimage routes leading to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain, where the remains of the apostle Saint James the Great are believed to be interred. These paths, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, attract hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and hikers annually from across the globe, each seeking a unique experience—be it spiritual, cultural, athletic, or introspective.

The French Camino de Santiago Routes in the Southwest

Southwest France serves as the starting point for several significant historical Voies (ways) leading to Santiago de Compostela. These routes converge towards the Pyrenees before joining the Camino Francés in Spain. Each possesses its own unique character, scenery, and set of challenges. The four primary routes are:

1. The Via Podiensis (GR 65): From Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

The Via Podiensis, also known as the Le Puy Route, is arguably the most popular and well-organised of the French ways. It begins in Le Puy-en-Velay, in the Auvergne region, and traverses iconic areas of southwest France, such as the Aubrac, the Margeride, the Lot Valley, and Gascony, before reaching Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at the foot of the Pyrenees. Approximately 764 kilometres long, it is celebrated for its diverse landscapes, ranging from volcanic plateaus to gentle agricultural hills, interspersed with picturesque medieval villages. The terrain is varied and can be demanding, particularly in the initial mountainous stages of the Aubrac.

2. The Via Turonensis (GR 655): From Paris/Tours to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

The Via Turonensis, or Tours Route, is one of the most northern routes, originating in Paris or Tours. It passes through regions like Touraine, Poitou, and Aquitaine. Known for its more temperate climate and generally less pronounced relief than the Via Podiensis, it is often considered one of the easier routes. However, its flatter sections may sometimes lack the solitude and wild character sought by some pilgrims. It eventually merges with the Via Podiensis or other routes further south.

3. The Via Lemovicensis (GR 654): From Vézelay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Starting from Vézelay in Burgundy, the Via Lemovicensis, or Vézelay Route, crosses the Limousin and Périgord regions. It is characterised by dense forests, verdant valleys, and rolling landscapes. Less frequented than the Via Podiensis, it offers a more solitary and contemplative experience. The path is dotted with historical sites and charming villages, though the infrastructure might be slightly less developed compared to the more popular itineraries.

4. The Via Tolosana (GR 653): From Arles to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

The Via Tolosana, or Arles Route, is the southernmost of the French routes, commencing in Arles in Provence. It traverses Languedoc and Gascony, passing through cities such as Toulouse and Auch. Its journey is influenced by a Mediterranean climate at its outset, gradually becoming more oceanic as it progresses westward. This route is known for its sunny landscapes, vineyards, and Roman heritage. It is also less frequented than the Via Podiensis, offering a welcome tranquillity.

Each of these routes provides a unique perspective on France and the pilgrimage. The choice of itinerary will directly influence the optimal time to embark on your journey.

Seasonal Analysis: When to Go?

The selection of the season is paramount for a successful experience on the Camino de Santiago. Each period of the year presents its own advantages and disadvantages in terms of weather, pilgrim traffic, and available services.

Spring (April – May – June)

Spring is frequently cited as one of the best times to walk the Camino routes in France, offering a balance of pleasant temperatures, lush green landscapes, and moderate pilgrim numbers, especially early in the season.

Weather and Walking Conditions

•April and Early May: These months are characterised by mild days and cool nights. The landscapes awaken with an explosion of wildflowers and vibrant greenery. However, the weather can be unpredictable, with frequent showers and cool winds, particularly on the Aubrac and Margeride plateaus along the Via Podiensis. Average temperatures in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in April range from 8°C to 15°C (46°F to 59°F), with significant rainfall. It is essential to pack good-quality rain gear and warm layers. Trails can be muddy after rain.

•Late May and June: Temperatures become milder, with longer and sunnier days. This is an ideal period to enjoy the scenery without the intense heat of summer. Average temperatures in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in June range from 13°C to 21°C (55°F to 70°F), with less frequent rainfall than in April. However, thunderstorms can occur in the late afternoon, especially in more exposed regions. It is advisable to start walking early in the morning to avoid the afternoon heat and to protect oneself from the sun.

Pilgrim Traffic and Atmosphere

Spring sees a gradual increase in the number of pilgrims. April is generally quieter, but traffic begins to pick up in May and June. These months are considered pleasant but busy, sometimes even more so than July and August on certain sections. The Via Podiensis, being the most popular, will experience this increase more acutely. Accommodations and services are generally all open and well-prepared to welcome pilgrims. It is recommended to book accommodations in advance, especially if your journey coincides with French public holidays.

Advantages of Spring

•Stunning Landscapes: Nature is at its peak, with blooming fields and lush vegetation.

•Pleasant Temperatures: Ideal for walking, especially in late spring, before the intense summer heat.

•Open Services: Most gîtes, restaurants, and shops are operational.

•Daylight Hours: Days are longer, providing more time for walking and exploration.

Disadvantages of Spring

•Unpredictable Weather: Risk of showers and cool temperatures, especially early in the season.

•Increasing Crowds: Can lead to competition for accommodations, particularly in May and June.

•Muddy Trails: After rain, some sections can be challenging.

Summer (July – August)

Summer is the hottest and busiest season on the Camino routes. While it offers long, sunny days, it presents specific challenges, notably heat and high pilgrim traffic.

Weather and Walking Conditions

•July and August: These months are characterised by high temperatures, particularly in the southwest regions of France. In Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, average temperatures in July and August can reach 26°C (79°F) during the day, with lows around 17°C (63°F) . Rainfall is generally lower, but intense and brief thunderstorms can occur. The heat can be particularly oppressive on exposed sections, such as the causses (limestone plateaus) or paved roads. It is imperative to start walking very early in the morning, hydrate regularly, wear light and breathable clothing, and protect oneself from the sun (hat, sunscreen).

Pilgrim Traffic and Atmosphere

July and August correspond to the peak tourist season and school holidays, leading to maximum pilgrim traffic on the routes, especially on the Via Podiensis and the Camino Francés. Although some reports suggest that June and July are sometimes less crowded than May and September, it is generally accepted that summer is the busiest period. Competition for accommodations is fierce, and it is absolutely necessary to book in advance, especially in popular stopover towns. The atmosphere is often very lively and social, which can be an advantage for some pilgrims, but a disadvantage for those seeking solitude.

Advantages of Summer

•Long Days: More time for walking and exploration, with maximum sunshine.

•Full Services: All accommodations and services are open and fully operational.

•Social Atmosphere: Ideal for meeting other pilgrims and sharing the experience.

Disadvantages of Summer

•Intense Heat: Risk of heatstroke and fatigue, especially during midday.

•High Crowds: Less tranquility, difficulty finding accommodations without reservations.

•Thunderstorms: Possibility of violent, albeit brief, thunderstorms.

Autumn (September – October – November)

Autumn is another favoured period for walking the Camino de Santiago in France, offering stable weather conditions and beautiful landscapes, often with fewer people than during the peak summer season.

Weather and Walking Conditions

•September: This month is often considered the best for walking. The summer heat subsides, temperatures are pleasant and stable, and mornings are crisp while afternoons remain mild. Rainfall is generally low, but quick showers can occur. Average temperatures in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in September range from 11°C to 20°C (52°F to 68°F). The landscapes are adorned with autumn colours, offering spectacular views, particularly in Gascony with its golden fields and harvest activities.

•October: Early October extends the pleasant conditions of September, with mild temperatures and clear air, providing excellent visibility on higher ground. However, daylight hours gradually shorten, and rainy days become more frequent as the month progresses. Some rural infrastructures may begin to reduce their opening hours or close by the end of the month. Average temperatures in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in October range from 8°C to 16°C (46°F to 61°F).

•November: This month marks the beginning of the off-season. The weather becomes colder and wetter, with more frequent rain, morning frosts, and fog in the valleys and on the plateaus. Although walking is still possible with appropriate gear, many gîtes and cafés close midweek. It is crucial to plan stages and check accommodation availability in advance. Average temperatures in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in November range from 4°C to 11°C (39°F to 52°F).

Pilgrim Traffic and Atmosphere

Autumn, particularly September and early October, benefits from moderate pilgrim traffic, even decreasing after the summer rush. This makes finding accommodations easier and offers a more peaceful and contemplative experience. The paths are less crowded, allowing for deeper immersion in nature and local culture. It is an ideal period for those seeking tranquillity and the beauty of autumnal landscapes.

Advantages of Autumn

•Pleasant and Stable Weather: Especially in September, with ideal temperatures for walking.

•Beautiful Landscapes: Autumnal colours provide a spectacular backdrop.

•Moderate Crowds: Fewer people on the paths and in accommodations.

•Local Activities: Opportunity to discover grape harvests and other seasonal festivities.

Disadvantages of Autumn

•Shortening Days: Daylight hours decrease, especially in October and November.

•Gradual Closure of Services: Some accommodations and businesses may close by the end of the season.

•Colder and Wetter Weather: Increased rainfall and lower temperatures in late autumn.

Winter (December – January – February – March)

Winter is the least popular period for walking the Camino de Santiago in France. Weather conditions are often challenging, and many services are closed. This season is reserved for experienced and self-sufficient pilgrims.

Weather and Walking Conditions

•December to March: These months are characterised by cold temperatures, snow, and ice, particularly on the Aubrac and Margeride plateaus, as well as in the Pyrenees. Elsewhere, the weather is a mix of cold rain, sleet, and occasional sunny days. Average temperatures in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in January range from 3°C to 11°C (37°F to 52°F), with high rainfall . Snow can persist until late May in some high-altitude areas. Days are short, limiting walking time and requiring meticulous planning.

Pilgrim Traffic and Atmosphere

Winter is the quietest season on the routes. Pilgrim traffic is minimal, offering almost complete solitude. However, this also means that most accommodations and services are closed. Pilgrims who choose this period must be entirely self-sufficient, carry survival gear, and be prepared for extreme conditions. The atmosphere is introspective and demanding, far from the social aspect of other seasons.

Advantages of Winter

•Solitude and Introspection: Ideal for a deep and personal pilgrimage experience.

•Winter Landscapes: The beauty of snow-covered landscapes can be spectacular.

Disadvantages of Winter

•Extreme Weather Conditions: Cold, snow, ice, rain, strong winds.

•Limited Services: Most accommodations and businesses are closed.

•Short Days: Limited walking time and need for rigorous planning.

•Physical and Technical Demands: Requires great autonomy and experience in mountain walking.

Pilgrim Statistics

The attendance on the Camino de Santiago routes in France, particularly those leading to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, has seen consistent growth in recent years. While precise figures for the French routes are more challenging to obtain than for the Camino Francés in Spain, general trends can be observed.

The Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago de Compostela publishes annual statistics on the number of pilgrims arriving in Santiago. These figures provide an indication of the overall popularity of the pilgrimage and, by extension, the traffic on the French routes leading to it. In 2025, over 530,000 pilgrims were welcomed in Santiago de Compostela, marking a 6.2% increase compared to 2024 . The symbolic threshold of 500,000 pilgrims and hikers was crossed for the first time in 2025.

The months of May, June, and September are generally the busiest on all routes, including the French ones. However, it is important to note that the Via Podiensis is by far the most popular of the French routes, and therefore the most likely to be crowded during these peak periods. The other routes (Turonensis, Lemovicensis, Tolosana) offer a quieter experience, even during months of high traffic.

It is interesting to note that, despite school holidays, July and August can sometimes be less crowded than May and September on certain sections, likely due to the intense heat deterring some pilgrims.

Infrastructure and Services

The availability of infrastructure and services is a crucial factor to consider when choosing the period for your pilgrimage.

Accommodations (Gîtes d’étape, B&Bs, Hotels)

•High Season (May – September): During this period, almost all gîtes d’étape, B&Bs, and hotels along the routes are open. On the Via Podiensis, which is the most developed in terms of accommodation, booking is highly recommended, if not essential, especially in May, June, and September, as well as during weekends and public holidays. On less frequented routes, booking is also advisable but may be less critical.

•Mid-Season (April and October): In April, services gradually begin to open. In October, they start to close, especially towards the end of the month. It is imperative to check opening hours and book in advance, as some establishments may have reduced hours or close midweek.

•Low Season (November – March): During the winter months, many accommodations are closed, particularly rural gîtes d’étape. Pilgrims who choose to walk during this period must be prepared for almost complete self-sufficiency, needing to carry more provisions and camping gear, or meticulously plan their stages based on the few open accommodations. Some gîtes may open upon request, but this requires prior arrangement.

Food and Supplies

The situation is similar for food and supplies. In high season, shops, bakeries, and restaurants are open and well-stocked. In mid-season, some may have reduced hours. In low season, many small rural businesses are closed, making resupply more challenging. It is advisable to carry enough provisions for several days, especially on isolated sections.

Transportation and Access

Transportation options to reach the starting points of the routes (Le Puy-en-Velay, Vézelay, Arles, Tours) are generally more numerous and frequent in high season. In low season, public transport links may be reduced, requiring more extensive planning.

Events and Local Festivals

The Camino de Santiago routes pass through regions rich in culture and traditions. Choosing certain periods can allow you to discover local festivals and cultural events that enrich the pilgrimage experience.

•Spring: Spring is a time of renewal, with many village festivals and local markets celebrating the arrival of warmer weather. Easter festivities may also coincide with your pilgrimage, offering special religious celebrations.

•Summer: Summer is the season for festivals and major celebrations. In Occitanie, for example, there are major events such as Jazz in Marciac, Rio Loco, Montpellier Danse, Les Déferlantes, Pause Guitare, and numerous ferias (local festivals) . These events can add a festive dimension to your journey but may also lead to increased prices and difficulty finding accommodations in the affected towns.

•Autumn: Autumn is the harvest season, with grape harvest festivals, agricultural fairs, and gastronomic celebrations. This is an excellent opportunity to discover local products and regional traditions .

Practical Advice for Each Season

Spring (April – June)

•Gear: Pack layered clothing, a good waterproof jacket, a windbreaker, and waterproof walking shoes. A lightweight sleeping bag can be useful for cool nights.

•Bookings: Book your accommodations in advance, especially in May and June, and during public holidays.

•Hydration and Sun Protection: Even if temperatures are mild, the sun can be strong. Protect yourself and hydrate regularly.

Summer (July – August)

•Gear: Light and breathable clothing, a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, high-SPF sunscreen. Carry plenty of water and a filter bottle if possible.

•Walking Schedule: Start very early in the morning to avoid the hottest hours of the day. Take frequent breaks in the shade.

•Bookings: Essential for all accommodations. Book as far in advance as possible.

Autumn (September – November)

•Gear: Layered clothing, waterproof jacket, windbreaker, hat, and gloves for cool mornings. Robust and waterproof walking shoes are recommended.

•Bookings: Advisable, especially in September. Check opening hours for services in October and November.

•Daylight Hours: Account for shortening days when planning your stages.

Winter (December – March)

•Gear: Warm and technical clothing (multiple layers), down jacket, waterproof trousers, gaiters, light crampons, and an ice axe if traversing snowy areas. A warm sleeping bag, stove, and food are essential.

•Self-Sufficiency: Be entirely self-sufficient. Inform yourself about weather conditions and trail status before each stage.

•Experience: This period is reserved for pilgrims experienced in winter hiking and navigation.

Conclusion:

There is no single answer to the question of the best time to walk the Camino de Santiago in southwest France. Each season offers a distinct experience, with its own charms and challenges. The ideal choice will depend on your personal preferences, your tolerance for weather conditions, your desire for solitude or camaraderie, and your level of preparation.

•For a balanced experience with pleasant weather and moderate crowds, spring (late April, May, early June) and autumn (September, early October) are the most recommended periods. These months offer an ideal compromise between mild temperatures, beautiful landscapes, and good service availability without the congestion of the high season.

•If you seek a social atmosphere and are not deterred by heat and crowds, summer (July, August) can be an option, provided you are well-prepared and book in advance.

•For experienced pilgrims seeking solitude and deep immersion, winter (November to March) offers a unique and demanding experience, but requires rigorous preparation and great self-sufficiency.

Whatever your choice, the Camino de Santiago is a transformative adventure. Good planning, adequate physical preparation, and appropriate gear are the keys to a successful and memorable pilgrimage. Buen Camino!

References

[1] CaminoWeather. Best time of year to walk the Vía Podiensis / Camino de Le Puy / GR 65.

[2] Via Compostela. Quand partir sur les chemins de Compostelle ?

[3] Les Chemins vers Compostelle. Quel est le meilleur mois pour faire le pèlerinage de Compostelle