The Perfect Place to Press Pause
I moved here, from the north of France, nearly 20 years ago, and this is where my soul has finally settled. Here I have put down roots so deep that, if I was ever uprooted, I would leave half of my essence behind.
Off the beaten track, this is Gascony, the Jewel in the Crown of Southwest of France where I host my Camino de Santiago walking retreats.
It is difficult to describe Gascony without falling into purple prose, or heaven forbid, my readers suspect said prose was written by AI. A land of undulating hills, fertile valleys, and quaint villages, it simply exudes rustic charm. This picturesque landscape, often described as the “Tuscany of France,” captivated my heart, right from the start, and never fails to move my guests with its timeless beauty and rich tapestry of colours and textures.
Rolling hills, draped in emerald-green vineyards and golden sunflower fields, stretch as far as the eye can see, creating a patchwork of vibrant hues that dance in the sunlight. It is an extraordinary place. I have lived in and visited many parts of the world, and in my humble opinion, Gascony has no equal.
Slow Living, centuries before slow living became a thing.
Prepare to be enchanted by this until-now-well-kept-secret region, reminiscent of a bygone era when life unfolded at a slower pace and community bonds ran deep, far from the hustle and bustle of modern life. In these ancient villages, some dating back to the 11th century, you’ll find narrow cobbled streets lined with charming cafés, artisanal shops, and centuries-old churches.
Time seems to stand still here, where the rhythm of life is dictated by the changing seasons and age-old countryside traditions.
Colour. Aromas. Perfumes. Sounds. Tastes. Somehow all seem more intense here.
I feel more alive here than I ever felt before. Grounded. Connected. Contented.
As the sun sets over the horizon, casting a warm glow across the mighty Pyrenées mountains, the landscape takes on a magical quality, bathed in hues of gold, crimson, and violet. The air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and the chorus of crickets, as the countryside settles into a peaceful serenity that feels a world away from the ever-increasing pace of modern life.
The PERFECT place for my retreats.
Gascony runs on seasons, not schedules. Lunch takes as long as lunch takes. The shop closes when the shopkeeper has had enough. Within about a day, guests notice their shoulders have dropped, their breathing has slowed, and they are sleeping much better. The setting does it for you, and I just supply the creature comforts.
My little French farmhouse, which I have been dreaming of owning since I was 12, is very close to the Voie du Puy, one of the great French pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela, which means my guests walk along paths that pilgrims have used for a thousand years. The terrain is rolling hills rather than mountain slogs, so you can walk all day and still have the energy to enjoy dinner. And because this is the quieter French Camino, you’ll often have a valley to yourself.
There is almost no light pollution here, so the night sky is spectacular, and the days are filled with birdsong, crickets and the occasional tractor rumbling by. For introverts, “solo-souls” and anyone who has been overstimulated for far too long, this is heaven. You can be properly alone without being lonely, because there will always be someone to share a cup of coffee or a pot of tea with. My groups are small by design, never more than four or five guests, so nobody gets lost in a crowd.
Gascony has a long, easy relationship with horses, and mine are the stars of my retreats. Spending time with them is calming in a way that is hard to explain until you’ve done it. They don’t ask you to prove yourself, they respond to how you actually are, and they have strong views on everything.
I’m so looking forward to introducing you to this region, aptly named “Glorious Gascony! – Dr M Montagu
